Cabaret Makeup Look
Cabaret makeup or Burlesque makeup or even era 1920’s makeup all break the rules with dark smokey eyes and deep rich lips.
Makeup artists usually follow the rule “the darker the eyes the lighter the lips”. But bad girls never follow the rules. Dark coal eyes and deep sultry lips are the realm of rebel Vixens. Born in 1920’s and worn by Flapper’s and on the stages of the Cabaret or Moulin Rouge. This is serious makeup designed to get attention and show you make the rules.
1920’s. was the beginning of the JAZZ ERA. World War One had ended and celebration was in the air. In the US. women had won the right to vote, threw out their corsets, cut their long hair into a stylish bob (or shorter!), raised their hemlines, called themselves Flappers and danced the Charleston till dawn. Flirty Hollywood Actress Clara Bow’s style fast became the rage when Max factor created the look so her features could show up on the silent movie screen. Her confident, bold style set the tone of the era. Meanwhile in Paris the Moulin Rouge was dazzling with daring and glittering Vixens and in Berlin the Cabaret crossed lines with an even darker look, that both men and women adorned.
It truly was a time of “anything goes”.
The color choice of eye shadow and lipstick is dark burgundy and black.
Here’s how to get the “VIXEN” Look.
Brows- Should be dark even black is o.k.. Some Flapper’s wore thick dark brows while 20’s Hollywood Starlet’s, Cabaret and Moulin Rouge performer’s brows were very dark and thin. For thin brows cover brow hair with foundation and draw on a thin black line.
Eyes- Define eyes in black shadow at outer lash corner sweeping up to above the crease blending over to the inner eye corner. To keep eyes looking open, do not blend onto center of lid. Keep the look rounded. These are not “Cat Eyes” but round “Doe Eyes”. Blend burgundy eyeshadow into the edges of the black above crease rounding eye from outer corner to inner corner. Wet liner brush, stir into black eye shadow and line across lid and below lower lash line creating a fuller line at the center of lower lashes. For a large stage apply white pencil onto lower lid and a little at the outer corner to make eyes appear even rounder. Finish lining by applying burgundy eye shadow dry on top of the black smudging more at the center of the lower lashes. Add a full row of black false lashes.
Foundation/Concealer & Powder- Clean up mess under the eyes from eyeshadow fall out and apply foundation, concealer and powder in that order to create flawless skin.
Lips– Lips need to be small “rosebud” shaped. The sides of the lips come in with the top “bow” very defined. Use a burgundy lip liner and lipstick. If you don’t have a burgundy lip liner or want to make your lips almost black, blend black eye shadow with your liner brush into your lipstick. To create more fullness to the lips apply a light shimmering lipstick to upper and lower lip center.
Cheeks- Flush apples in red cheek color a little stronger in color than you normally would so the cheeks really show up.
Add a mole just above upper lip or at temple by dipping your wet liner brush into black shadow.
Glitz- If costume has a lot of glitz (rhinestones or sequins) add a little glitter to compliment costume color just at the center of the upper eye lid to look wet. A headband with a flower or feather at the side for Flapper or for Cabaret and Moulin Rouge choose a top hat to add drama. Bob wigs in black or platinum create the hair style of the day.
To go Goth or create a Modern Vixen.
Eyes-The same principals apply only due omit the burgundy shadow. Apply black to define and matte cream color eye shadow to high light under the brow and a little onto lid. Add white shimmer powder at center of lid, inner eye corner and brow arch.
Brows are still dark and thin . False lashes are not as thick as they were in the 20’s and are a bit longer sweeping out at the sides for drama (more modern vixen).
Cheek color is still a strong red flush but add contouring to define features very pronounced especially cheekbones and nose line.
Lips– Black or burgundy black tones made very shiny and modern with clear lip gloss.
Glitz- Silver glitter is the color of choice and applied at the center of lips, inner eye corner and center of eye lid to create a Glam Vixen look that is a show stopper! Be sure to secure glitter with a Spirit Gum like Mode Dion Diva Glue for staying power.